Gdansk

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GDANSK

 

Avril-2017-a-vacsGDANSK 1127 - Copy.jpg

Piwna​​ street

 

 

 

 

 

THE TOWN

 

 

Gdansk is the 6th largest city in Poland (in terms of population). It is located on the northern Baltic coast of the country. It is a city with a long history going back beyond the Middle Ages,​​ and today it presents many historical and architectural interests.

For a summary of his story, quite burdensome, see our friend Wikipedia:​​ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gdansk

Basically, the city was in turn Polish, Prussian, independent, occupied by the Nazis, Polish. The shipyards in Gdansk are famous because they were the center of popular protest against communist leaders and against Jaruzelski in the 1970s.​​ Solidarnosc​​ was founded there in August 1980 with​​ Lech Walesa​​ as a charismatic leader. It is highly recommended you visit the​​ European Solidarity Center​​ in order to immerse yourself in the​​ dense​​ history of these tumultuous years.

Concretely, what is remarkable when you walk in Gdansk is that the city center is preserved from the big​​ shop brands. This is very unusual. Unlike the major historic European cities like Vienna, Copenhagen, Strasbourg ...​​ Gdansk has preserved its historic center: shops, cafes and restaurants are very discreet behind the magnificent facades of the city center. There are no big loud signs with showcases​​ masking​​ the architectural style of the city. It is very appreciable and relatively unique to be underlined. Hopefully it​​ will last!

 

Gdansk,​​ downtown quays

 

 

TOURISTIC GUIDES

 

 

We could not get a​​ paper​​ touristic​​ guide specifically dedicated to the city of Gdansk (in April 2017). The only options we found at the time were guides on Poland or the Greater Pomeranian region, regardless of the publisher. For an average of 15-20 Euros the guide, we found it a bit excessive to be interested in the final​​ by only​​ few pages ... So we decided to buy only part of the guide! We bought the pdf of the chapter on the city of Gdansk in the e-book of the Lonely Planet dedicated to Poland: 2.5 Euros and you have a pdf that you can load on your tablet or print at your leisure. A solution a priori very adapted to our needs.

http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks/poland/poland-travel-guide-8/poland-gdansk-pomerania-8/

Okay, but is this guide worth?

It​​ is ... how to say? 'acceptable'. Standard, nothing bluffing.​​ You can actually grab the same amount of information​​ in 10 min of internet​​ search... not​​ a​​ transcendent​​ guide therefore. If​​ we​​ recommend it​​ ?... mmmm​​ ... (you feel the enthusiasm ?!). Yes IF you feel better going with a guide, if you miss it when you do not have one. This will make you a basis​​ to start exploring the city. Otherwise, frankly, no.

A little search with Mr Google and you can print out your city center maps before you leave to get an idea. You will also find​​ maps, as usual,​​ at​​ the reception of hotels,​​ in​​ taxis,​​ and at​​ information points.

 

For more details on the history of the city and all the activities to do there, here is a link to a guide ...​​ that is​​ FREE!

https://www.inyourpocket.com/gdansk

So, yes, it is full of advertisements for restaurants, spas and hotels ... it is the game my​​ friend! it's FREE 😉 BUT, in our humble opinion, it is as detailed and interesting as the LP chapter. It even has the advantage of listing activities to do with children on sunny days and ...​​ on​​ rainy day! (and that's the winning combo for parents, hey!).

 

GOOD TO KNOW:
The tourist information center on the main street (Długi Targ 28/29) is very disappointing. We have rarely seen a tourist office as useless as​​ that one​​ ... Very small, there is hardly any brochure available. The person present the day of our visit was ... helpful, but nothing more. So do not count on it to help you compose your​​ trip! Prepare yourself before!

 

 

 

WHAT TO DO IN​​ Gdansk?

 

 

Downtown

 

The city center of Gdansk is beautiful. It is very pleasant to walk there. There are many pedestrian streets, which makes walks very quiet for parents with children ;-). The main streets (Dluga and Mariacka) are the most photogenic, very colorful with a succession of facades with varied architectures, with patterns or small hand painted scenes. It is certain that you will discover new details at each of your walks.

Numerous street-shows are set up as the day progresses. The shops and bars are discreet behind the decorated facades. It is beautiful, preserved from the big​​ clothes​​ chains or fast food that generally trust the city centers. It is therefore very​​ pleasant and remarkable. We hope that Gdansk will succeed in avoiding these big banners for a long time!

 

Mariacka street

 

The streets adjacent to the​​ Dluga​​ will introduce you to the ancient 'entrance' gates in the center ('Golden Gate' & co.), The​​ quays, the​​ Cran. Other sites of architectural and historical interest of the city. Do not hesitate to​​ get lost​​ in the narrow streets, it is always the best option to find moments of more authentic​​ life​​ than on the main tourist routes. Some buildings hide​​ small​​ food markets for example, where you can buy a​​ piece​​ of​​ local​​ cheese to hold until the next break 😉

At the East exit of the 'Dlugi Targ'​​ street, you will not miss the​​ big​​ wheel. It is illuminated in the evenings. The tour lasts about fifteen minutes, it is not exceptional, but it is worth it. There is an overview of the colorful historic center.

Do not miss either:

-​​ the​​ 360 view of the whole city from the​​ tower of the​​ cathedral​​ (some Zloty the climb: the view, the stairs, it's worth it!)

- the​​ CiuCiu​​ candy factory on the main Dluga​​ street.

 

​​ 

Stairs to go up​​ St Mary​​ church​​ panoramic view!

 

 

Gdynia​​ and​​ Sopot

 

Gdansk is a bit like the winning combo, because when you come to visit it, it's not only Gdansk that you have access to. It is also​​ Sopot​​ and​​ Gdynia. The 3 cities -​​ 'Trójmiasto'. The cities are​​ aligned along the coast. So, when you are in Gdansk, you can easily catch​​ a​​ train to discover these two other cities, each of which has its own personality!

Gdynia is certainly the least interesting from an architectural point of view, but has the advantage of offering an aquarium. Well, frankly, it will not leave you an imperishable memory ... It is small and some rooms are very disappointing. BUT: 1. It's not expensive, and 2. It's still a popular activity for families with (young) children on a rainy day!​​ So, a good option to keep in mind for the 'in case of'​​ day.

Sopot has more character. The town center is pleasant and is especially famous for its long pontoon​​ extending​​ into the Baltic Sea - the famous 'Molo' of Sopot. It is indeed very pleasant to​​ walk it​​ slowly,​​ humming the sea air and observing the seagulls that come to land there. Do not hesitate to stroll through the streets of the residential areas of Sopot, where you will find large villas with delicate architecture.

 

 

PRACTICAL POINT

 

- Several trains allow you to connect the city center of Gdansk,​​ to​​ Sopot and Gdynia. For example, the SKM train​​ leaves from Srodmiescie station on the edge of the city center and allows you to stop at the city centers of Sopot and Gdynia (you can take a day ticket that will allow you to travel on the same route)

 

- The 'Molo' of Sopot

Transport: From the city center of Gdansk,​​ use the very convenient website

https://jakdojade.pl/trojmiasto/​​ to locate your stations!

Recommendation: not to be missed!​​ 

Price: free off season, in summer: child 4Zl, adult 8Zl, family 19Zl

Site:​​ http://molo.sopot.pl/?lang=en

 

-​​ The​​ aquarium​​ of​​ Gdynia​​ :

Transport: From the city center of Gdansk,​​ use the very convenient website

https://jakdojade.pl/trojmiasto/​​ to locate your stations!

Recommandation:​​ to do on a rainy day, if with kids

Adresse:​​ at the far end of the main pier

Prix:​​ children 16Zl, adult​​ 24Zl,​​ family​​ 64Zl

Times: 09:00-17/20:00​​ depending on seasons

Site:​​ http://www.aquarium.gdynia.pl/

 

 

Molo Sopot

 

​​ 

train SKM -​​ ​​ tramway

 

 

Marienbourg​​ Castle, Malbork

 

Here​​ is our big favorite:​​ the castle of Marienburg in Malbork.​​ FANTASTIC! We spent 5 hours there, and our 7 year old daughter did not want to leave! Highly recommended!!

It is a castle of the 'Teutonic' Knights, classified UNESCO (and there, for once, we agree!). (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forteresse_teutonique_de_Marienbourg).

The castle is very impressive in itself, beautiful, very well reconstructed and highlighted. The site is large, varied, with different themes. The rooms are highlighted​​ simply​​ (the cathedral is beautiful). And the audio guide is outstanding! It is simple to use, clear, very informative and reacts to every change of​​ rooms. With a small screen giving additional information and indicating the way to go. Awesome. We loved it. The kids loved it. We recommend 200%!

 

PRACTICAL POINT

Recommendation: not to be missed !!

Transport: by regional train from Gdansk Glowny station, stop Malbork (~ 1h),

use the very convenient website​​ https://jakdojade.pl/trojmiasto/​​ 

Address: Malbork, 15min walk from the station, follow the signs

Price: child 30Zl, adult 40Zl (with audioguide -​​ fantastic!)

Opening​​ hours: 09: 00-19 / 20: 00 depending on the season

Site:​​ http://www.zamek.malbork.pl/en

 

​​ 

 

Marienbourg Malbork

 

 

European Solidarity Centre

 

Gdansk has a very rich history. Shipbuilding in particular provided shelter for the beginnings of popular protest against authoritarian rulers in the 1970s. These years of popular revolts were tragic for many families. Various leaders led the fight for rights as fundamental as the simple right to​​ go on​​ strike. Gdansk saw the birth of the famous trade union​​ 'Solidarnosc'​​ in August 1980, with​​ Lech Walesa​​ as a charismatic leader. These manifestations, occupations and​​ barricades are highlights of the history of Poland, which is important to know in order to understand the country.

The different rooms of the museum are extremely well made, very well arranged, with a chronological route. Numerous objects from the 70s and 80s are presented as well as numerous touch screens allowing​​ consulting​​ an impressive number of historical documents. An audioguide is available and recommended for the visit.​​ However, it did not work very well during our visit.​​ 

Little more: there is a children's play area on the ground floor: if your children do not have the patience to wait, they can have fun while you finish the visit!​​ 

 

PRACTICAL POINT

Recommendation: not to be missed !!

Transport: walking​​ through​​ the center of Gdansk, very nice!

Address: pI. Solidarności 1, 80-863 Gdańsk

Price: child 15Zl, adult 20Zl, family 55Zl

Opening​​ hours: 10: 00-20: 00 (high season)

Site:​​ http://www.ecs.gda.pl/

 

​​ ​​ 

European Solidarity Centre

 

Panorama​​ on the​​ shipyards​​ of​​ Gdansk

 

 

Zoo​​ of​​ Oliwa

 

Well, let's say it right away: the Gdansk Zoo will probably not remain in your memories as the most beautiful zoo you have visited. It is not exceptional. But it is nice, a size respectable enough to occupy a small family 2-3h easily (we stayed 4-5h). The first​​ areas at the beginning of the​​ tour​​ are frankly not terrible. We even​​ suffered​​ for the poor elephants and other gazelles ... and we started​​ to regret our expedition '​​ train / bus / backpack / picnic / yes we will see a lion​​ '.... But: patience! it improves​​ radically​​ after !! The spaces for​​ the​​ lions and other wild cats (?)​​ are visibly recent and much more friendly for visitors - and most likely for​​ the​​ animals. The primate area is also very well done.

The little extra for families with children is that the zoo also offers 'tree climbing'! Very (very) well done. It was a real surprise. Our children enjoyed it. And there are​​ loops​​ for all ages.​​ From​​ the​​ loop​​ for very young children (4 years?)​​ ultra secured, to the​​ loops​​ at​​ 6-7m of height for adults. We highly recommend!​​ 

 

PRACTICAL POINT

Transport: by train SKM​​ or tram from Gdansk city center,​​ Then by bus 179 direction Osowa, stop Oliwa Zoo

Recommendation: to do! nice and big enough to hold a good part of the day with children, the most: the tree-climbing course 😉

Address: Karwieńska 3, 80-328 Gdańsk - Oliwa

Price: child 20Zl, adult 30Zl (in high season)

Opening​​ hours: 09: 00-15 / 19: 00 depending on the season

Site:​​ https://www.zoo.gda.pl/en/

The tree climbing: price ...? we do not remember ... but affordable

 

 

Brzezno

 

Another nice outing in Gdansk is to get the tram​​ to the​​ terminus in​​ Brzezno. The small tram ride is nice. You pass through different neighborhoods, and children like​​ to take the tram. You can then stroll on the beach, and go up to the​​ 'Molo'​​ (the white wooden pontoon). You can then return​​ back towards the city by​​ the park​​ 'Park Prezydenta Ronalda Reagana'​​ which offers many paths as well as games for the children, and you can retrieve a tram to the city center along the big avenues bordering the park.

The little trick in addition​​ for​​ the​​ kids: if you are lucky, it is​​ still​​ possible to find pieces of amber polished by the sea ... So motivate your children for a treasure hunt! 😉

 

PRACTICAL​​ POINT

Transport: take tram 3 to the Brzezno terminus

Recommendation: to do! it would be a shame to spend a few days on Gdansk without pacing a Baltic beach! and, who knows, you may find a piece of amber ... 😉

Address: Brzezno, beach and Molo

Price: free

 

Brzezno​​ beach

 

Molo Brzezno

 

 

 

ACCOMMODATION

 

 

The town center is very nice. We strongly recommend to stay in the city center, this will allow you to explore the city quietly, to enjoy the little mornings where the streets are deserted, to be able to return to your accommodation to take breaks, and​​ to go back​​ home​​ to eat in order to save some restaurants!. Having​​ lodging​​ in the center also puts you near all useful transport to discover the city and its surroundings (tram, trolley, train, taxi, bus).

For our stay we booked an apartment via booking.com (the White Lions Apartments Old Town). It was located a 2 minute walk from the Neptune fountain, ie the center of the center 😉 (see map). It was just perfect!

https://www.booking.com/hotel/pl/apartament-neptuna.en-gb.html

Clean, well appointed, 2 bedrooms, a large living room, a washing machine - perfect for a family! There is a bar on the ground floor which causes some inconvenience in the evenings, but the window closed, it​​ is bearable - but it's good to know.

However, a little negative experience with the company managing the accommodation: arriving late at the airport, we had booked a taxi for our arrival via​​ the contact given during the booking. The taxi never came, supposedly stuck in​​ traffic. We took another​​ taxi​​ directly​​ at​​ the airport: we did not encounter any​​ traffic issue​​ (...) and it was 2 times cheaper 😉

 

 

 

RESTAURANTS​​ WITH​​ GLUTENFREE OPTIONS

 

 

In Gdansk we stayed in the city center, which we​​ explored​​ every day.​​ As​​ good 'gluten-free'​​ family, we studied most of the menus of the restaurants we passed, knowing that it would probably be difficult to find one clearly offering gluten-free options ....

So, one thing is clear: Gdansk will definitely not be able to apply for the most welcoming city prize for celiacs! The menus do not list allergens, and most of the dishes are in sauce, which is quite risky ... We also had to​​ deal with​​ various waiters​​ who very visibly did not know what gluten meant .. ('gluten-free for children?​​ no problem!​​ we​​ can make pasta with sauce!'​​ ...? ... mmmmm? ... not convinced​​ the​​ parents...).​​ Bref.

We found however two nice restaurants, 5min walk from our​​ accommodation!

 

1. THE PYRA BAR

(Garbary 6/7, 80-827 Gdańsk, Poland)

http://pyrabar.pl/

Simple setting, but very friendly. Relaxed atmosphere. Very friendly waiters.​​ Activities available​​ for​​ children (!). Menus clearly listing ALL allergens for ALL dishes. Awesome! Several possible options for gluten-free. And it's good! and​​ cheap​​ (if we​​ remember​​ well, we paid 16 Euros for us 4: 4 courses & 4 drinks, which for people living in Norway is just ... mind blowing!). We went back 2 times 🙂

 

 ​​​​ 

 

2. THE FAMILIA BISTRO

(Garbary 2/4, 80-827 Gdańsk, Poland)

http://familiabistro.pl/

Right next to the Pyra Bar, in the same street.

Very friendly too. Very pleasant. Menu also listing allergens. Fewer options available in gluten-free versions than at the Pyra Bar. But it was very good. Attention: the dishes are copious! Ask advice from the waitress, she is very friendly.

 

 ​​​​ 

 

 

 

IN SUMMARY

 

 

 

WHAT WE​​ LIKED

- the city center, beautiful, incredibly preserved​​ of​​ big​​ brands​​ signs, so nice!

- the Marienburg Castle in Malbork: a marvel! a very impressive restoration and an extremely well done audio guide! DO NOT MISS IT!

- tramways

- wooden pontoons in Brzezno and Sopot, very old fashion

- the European Solidarity Center

 

 

 

LOGISTIQUE SANS GLUTEN

We went shopping at the 'Auchan' supermarket not far from the airport (accessible by bus / taxi).​​ Various gluten-free​​ products. 'Fresh' breads are also found in the traditional bakery department.

The little supermarkets in the town center offer some gluten-free items, but it's poor. It will help, but it will not fill your fridge for the week! (and then it's expensive).

 

 

 

LIENS INTERNET UTILES

http://www.gdansk.pl/fr/

https://www.inyourpocket.com/gdansk

And for the local transportation:

http://www.trojmiasto.jakdojade.pl

An absolutely indispensable site! very well done, which allow you to get out unharmed from the tramway / train / bus network with names of stations with 10 letters with a single vowel ... Seriously: it is very well done. It allows you to enter your itinerary, select options, schedules and it even creates maps for station changes! Awesome!

 

 

 

 

ACTIVITIES FOR 1 WEEK IN GDANSK

 

 

 

DAY 1.​​ 

Wander around the city center, discover the main streets (Dluga and Mariacka), the gates, the docks, and get lost in the adjacent little streets.

 

DAY 2.​​ 

Take the train to Gdynia and visit the aquarium (for a rainy day)

Take​​ again​​ the train direction Sopot, walk in the city center, go to the end of the Molo.

 

DAY 3.​​ 

Take the tram​​ 3​​ to the beach of Brzezno, walk on the beach, go to the Molo, return​​ by the​​ Park 'Prezydenta Ronalda Reagana'.​​ 

 

DAY 4.​​ 

Take the train to the Oliwa Zoo

 

DAY 5.​​ 

Visit the European Solidarity Center

 

DAY 6.​​ 

Take the train to Malbork and spend the day at the Marienburg Castle: fantastic!

 

 

 

Sunset on the​​ Dlugla

 

 

FLICKR

 

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