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NORWAY

 

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Aurland, Sogn

 

 

 

 

THE COUNTRY

 

 

Norway, the country of fjords, vikings, forests, small red houses​​ hooked on their rock, the cold, the midnight sun and the winter night ... and​​ the​​ oil. The clichés are numerous, sometimes true, sometimes not, as often.​​ 

So yes, there are beautiful fjords, amazing landscapes, colorful wooden houses, midnight sun and midday night ... but​​ that's​​ not​​ all of it​​ 😉 Norway is much more than that.

Especially for us who have lived there for almost 10 years.

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Gamle strynvegen

 

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Lofoten

 

The short 'wiki'​​ summary: Norway is part of Scandinavia with Sweden and Denmark (no, Finland is not part of it). It stretches along the​​ northeast​​ Atlantic Ocean over nearly 1700​​ km. That's almost 300​​ 000 km2 for only ... 5 million people ... With​​ Oslo​​ the capital, the 'big' cities are​​ Stavanger,​​ Bergen,​​ Trondheim,​​ Tromsø. We pay in Norwegian crowns, the 'NOK' (or kr.). And we discuss in​​ nynorsk​​ and​​ bokmål, both official languages.

The particularity of Norway is that it is a 'relatively new' country. Initially organized into Viking kingdoms, then under Danish, Swedish, Danish, Swedish​​ dominations​​ ... Norway declared its independence only in 1814, adopting its first constitution. The Norwegians will​​ however​​ remain united​​ to​​ Sweden for a while. It was not until 1905 that the country declared itself an independent, as a​​ constitutional monarchy, offering, after​​ parliamentary​​ vote, the crown to Haakon VII. Truly autonomous since 1905 therefore. Even if the history of Norway is rich, it is very recent, and this simple fact helps to understand many traits of Norwegians! Then, the country experienced an economic explosion after the Second World War, and especially since the 1970s with the discoveries of oil and gas reserves in the North Sea. Norway is now a rich country with a highly developed social system.

 

 

 

EXPATRIATION STORIES

 

 

So for us, Norway is a bit special ... since this is where we live,​​ since​​ almost 10 years​​ now... Like all expatriates' life, we oscillate between fascination and interrogation ... The country is beautiful,​​ the​​ quality of life is exceptional. We admire a lot of things in Norway, but there are also a lot of things​​ we do not always understand 😉

So here are some anecdotes of a life of expatriates in Norway ...

 

We highly recommend reading the excellent book by Jenny Blake 'The Norway Way' which summarizes the view of a stranger on the Norwegians and their habits ... enjoyable for expatriates 😉

 

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The Norwegians by the French

 

In (very big) summary, Norwegians are discreet,​​ simple​​ and generous. They claim and promote an 'outdoor' lifestyle, close to nature. They like to spend their weekends in family hikes, in any season and any time, on feet or on skis. It is remarkable and fascinating. But we must admit that sometimes​​ we​​ remain​​ uncertain​​ about the concept when it is 5 degrees and rains​​ like hell...

As a Norwegian, it is not uncommon to have several houses: the main house and what they call 'hytte'​​ -​​ secondary houses originally quite simple, with basic comfort, and traditionally located in the mountains for skiing and / or hunting, or on the coast for fishing. Today these 'hytte' are often real secondary houses, with all modern comforts. Families often have several. When you ask​​ 'you come​​ for​​ dinner this weekend?',​​ It is not uncommon to hear one answer​​ 'I​​ cannot, I have' hytte '... ah ok ...​​ 

 

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The Norway Way, Jenny Blake, Schibsted

 

In order to understand Norwegians, it should be​​ kept​​ in mind that the country's openness and economic development took place in a very short period of time compared to most other European countries. When we put everything in context, Norwegians are people who adapt quickly. It is very impressive. We (French) have taken centuries of hazardous learning to understand who we are. They​​ took​​ a few decades!

From a relational point of view, at first glance, they may seem little talkative, and rather 'cold' - according to our French standards. But,​​ as often,​​ it's​​ only​​ a carapace: if you are patient, you will realize that Norwegians are welcoming, curious, generous and open. They will not hesitate to help you if necessary, discuss and​​ exchange. You just have to be patient ...

 

And them? How do they perceive us? What are the a-prioris of the Norwegians on the French? Well, yes, let's be fair, it's also interesting to understand what they think of us 😉 Basically, after a little poll of our​​ friends, as usual, the French are perceived as arrogant, chauvinistic,​​ and​​ grumpy…yes. And also romantic, gallant, elegant (?!),​​ not to​​ forget our​​ incomparable​​ 'cuisine'​​ culture... In short, also a​​ nice​​ list of clichés ...('but I'm not talking about you, huh!'​​ Yes, of course ...)

 

 

Clichés

 

When we​​ discuss with​​ friends or colleagues who are not living in Norway, we also have the right to a series of​​ clichés​​ that are rather​​ depressing…

Generally, it​​ can be summarized by some:

-​​ It's​​ night​​ right now, isn't it?

-​​ For how​​ long did you not see the sun?​​ 2 months?

- Is it​​ not​​ too cold?​​ -20, -30?

-​​ How​​ many meters of snow do you have?

- Are you​​ not​​ tired of eating only salmon?

-​​ They're​​ all blond​​ with blue eyes, right?

Ya, ya, ya​​ ... you said clichés? ...

So, at the risk of disappointing some: no, Norway is not just that. Even though we live in very northern latitudes (Trondheim, 63oN), we do not spend half of the year under 4m of snow, in the dark, by -20oC... no, sorry.

Like any country, Norway is diverse. The landscapes are varied, often fascinating, captivating ... between fjords, mountains, glaciers, forests, beaches and​​ tundra. Each region has its peculiarities. Like everywhere. It is a country with a thousand faces that​​ cannot​​ be summarized to the winter night, the salmon and the Vikings. Norway is much more 😉

(see our pages on 'what to do in Norway' ...)

 

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detail​​ of the​​ Lom​​ church,

path​​ near​​ Skjærhalden, Hvaler

autumn countryside,​​ Otta

 

To counterbalance the above list of comments that are often made, here is our experience after 10 years in Trondheim, central Norway:

So yes, in winter it's cold, dark and snowy. But: generally​​ temperatures​​ stay between -5 and +5​​ oC​​ all winter (not much less than in Strasbourg for example ;-)),​​ with colder​​ spikes​​ at​​ -10 -15, but this does not last more than a few days. It usually snows from late December. And,​​ it is absolutely great!​​ The snow is beautiful. Skiing,​​ snowmen, igloos, snow slides ... it completely changes the winter activities!​​ 

Then, yes, in winter it is less​​ light​​ than in France, but ... it is​​ light! (in​​ Trondheim,​​ we are still​​ south of the polar circle), and with snow, the luminosity is magical, unique.​​ Myself,​​ I​​ like it. But it is true that some of our​​ friends are more sensitive to the​​ lack of​​ luminosity​​ than others, it depends on people. Then, from March the days lengthen very quickly, until almost erasing the night in June, it is still very impressive, even after 10 years. In summer it can be very hot, especially since the sun does not really set, the temperature does not fall with the night, and in​​ wooden​​ houses it can quickly get very​​ warm...​​ Bref, the seasons are marked. Snowy winters​​ and sunny summers.

 

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Klæbu​​ in​​ Decembre

 

 

Practical cases

 

So how do you live in Norway on a daily basis?

Well,​​ the quality of life is exceptional. Even if we do not always understand where​​ certain habits​​ come from, it remains a very pleasant country to live!

Here is a small (non exhaustive) list of things that marked us the most at the beginning of our expatriation.​​ 

 

 

THE FOOD

In good/real​​ French we are, let's start with the food, the meals ... and start by​​ complaints​​ ...!​​ After 10 years​​ around here,​​ well​​ ... we still do not understand Norwegian eating habits.​​ No,​​ definitely​​ no!​​ This is certainly due to our excessive culture of food in France, the importance we give​​ to​​ it.​​ But here, we're stuck.​​ We don't understand.

Let's start with the meal times. If you visit Norway this is what will strike you first. In general, Norwegians have 4 meals a day:​​ 

-​​ a classic, salty or sweet breakfast, usually based on slices of bread;​​ 

- then​​ a snack around 11am often consisting of 2​​ slices of bread​​ with whatever you want on​​ (the famous 'matpakke' of 'lunsj');​​ 

-​​ the only hot meal of the day​​ is​​ around 16-17;​​ 

-​​ and​​ the day finishes with​​ a succinct meal in the evening (often​​ slices of bread…yes, again), the 'kveldsmat'.​​ 

 

Honestly, it was difficult for us to adapt at first. Then we had children, going to the nursery and school, and being thus subject to the Norwegian rhythm, we had no choice but to adapt, since​​ our monsters​​ were​​ starving​​ at 16:30​​ ;-).​​ It went​​ very well in fact. It is now our daily life. The 'early' dinner at 16-17pm, destabilizing at the beginning, allows​​ managing​​ the many activities children​​ have in​​ the evenings​​ in Norway​​ (sport, music), so that's great.

 

Then, each country has its traditions and its emblematic dishes. As French we must admit that we find the culinary culture quite undeveloped​​ in Norway, in general ... So, attention: many Norwegians are very good cooks (much better than us!); there are very good products in Norway, and some traditional dishes are delicious, although sometimes surprising (pinnekjøtt, lutefisk, fårikål ...).

 

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Pinnekjøtt - Lutefisk

 

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Fårikål - Kjøtboller

 

But, it must be admitted that in terms of daily life, it is not very varied. In France, supermarkets are too 'super',​​ too​​ 'hyper', etc. The choice is often far too large, more​​ than necessary. We​​ are often lost​​ in a French supermarket. We make km for 2 yoghurts. In Norway, it is the opposite: the 'supermarkets' are rather' mini'-markets,​​ based on our standards. The choice of products is very limited. There is often no choice in fact: a brand holds the monopoly of the product, and that's how it is,​​ there is​​ no alternative.​​ So, if you don't like it 100%, you're stuck…

But it's getting better. We can notice a clear evolution of the contents of the shops in 10 years. We find today products that were impossible to find a few years ago. A new diversity that shows a change in mentalities. Another few years of evolution and the Norwegian supermarkets will have found the right balance between diversity and quantity 😉

 

For the restaurants, as everywhere, there is everything from the excellent to the passable, from the basic fast food to the​​ 3​​ stars​​ restaurant...

What is remarkable is the dish that is found on ALL the menus of ALL restaurants: ... the hamburger ... yes... It​​ scratches​​ our French genes a little bit. Even though it is often well done, a hamburger remains a hamburger ... Apart from this cult of the American​​ food, many restaurants are very good, but it is still quite 'basic', and unfortunately very expensive (amazingly​​ VERY​​ EXPENSIVE!). The famous hamburger is usually in 200-250​​ NOK (20EUR) for example!​​ ... So, the restaurant does not have the same social function as in France. You​​ cannot​​ go every day or​​ spontaneously​​ to the restaurant, as we do in France (for 20 EUR in France, you eat​​ 1-2 stars Michelin!). With a​​ standard​​ family budget​​ in Norway, the restaurant is an exception not to be renewed too often ...​​ a pity.​​ 

 

 

THE BREAD & THE 'PÅLEGG'

So, as mentioned above, a typical Norwegian day includes a lot of bread-based meals. First unfortunate finding: the bread bought at the supermarket is….really not​​ good. It could be much better, especially for a population eating so much​​ bread!​​ The bread is usually very dry and tasteless, often with added sugar. Second unfortunate​​ finding: the 'pålegg', literally 'what you can spread on your slice of bread', basically what they put on their sandwiches: and here it starts to be frankly depressing for the French we are. .. Norwegians are addicted to industrial products in tubes and other boxes, such as liver pâtés,​​ 'cheese'​​ with​​ shrimp, sausage or bacon​​ tastes,​​ and other mixtures​​ of extremely salty fish eggs (Norwegian 'kaviar' ) ... it's​​ very​​ special,​​ often really not good ... .but, actually...​​ it is​​ to test! 😉 This is entirely part of their culture!

 

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The Norway Way, Jenny Blake, Schibsted

 

 

If you are going to Norway, do not hesitate to test the​​ 'brunøst'.​​ 

In direct translation, it is 'brown​​ cheese'. It is sold as a plastic cube that you have to cut with a very specific tool, the​​ 'ostehøvel'. An art!​​ 

It's​​ surprising. It's sweet and it sticks to the teeth! It's more like caramel than cheese. But we do it! On a 'vaffel' (warm) with a coffee, it goes very wellafter 10 years of experiences (resignations?)​​ of​​ Norwegian culinary 😉

 

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Then, in the 'pålegg' category,​​ 'leverpostei'​​ is also remarkable: it is​​ a​​ very popular industrial liver pâté that many Norwegians​​ use daily for their 'matpakke'. Why we love​​ it? simply for its packaging: it is sold in a round​​ flashy​​ yellow box with a​​ very blonde​​ child's head on it, (caricature of the ideal Norwegian child?) ...​​ each time​​ I have the impression of buying​​ ...​​ pâté​​ of​​ children... # Delicatessen ....

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THE 'HEALTHY EATING', NORWEGIAN DEFINITION ...

In short, all that would be anecdotal if it remained​​ just on​​ the eating habits. In France, we​​ also​​ have a number of​​ weird​​ products that are part of our culinary traditions. It is simply a matter of culture, which varies from country to country.

What surprised​​ (troubled?​​ astonished?)​​ us in Norway​​ is the notion of what is 'healthy', what​​ is recommended by nutritionists ...

Explanations: Like any family in Norway, our children are monitored by the Norwegian medical and social teams. We are regularly invited to appointments (once a year​​ when they are young)​​ at the medical center so that a nurse checks the health of our children. Very good.​​ 

Our first appointments were​​ how to say ... very informative about the diet recommended by the Norwegian system ....​​ A real​​ clash of​​ cultures:​​ It was explicitly recommended to us to include in​​ our children​​ diet slices of bread spread of 'leverpostei' and other 'kaviar' (the industrial products in tube mentioned above).​​ We​​ were even reprimanded for not giving enough​​ of these 'in tubes' stuff​​ to our daughter ...​​ oui oui oui​​ ... the abyss​​ for us was immense.​​ At the beginning of the appointment, we were very proud to announce that our child was eating varied,​​ balanced​​ and sane​​ (in our opinion)​​ food, with lots of fruits and vegetables,​​ often organic. And the nurse ended to​​ strongly criticize​​ us​​ ... It was very destabilizing.​​ We were a bit shocked to be frank.​​ What we consider​​ in France​​ as low​​ value​​ products, not recommended (industrial products with list of unidentifiable ingredients), is here strongly recommended for the good growth of children​​ ('it contains good vitamins'​​ she said…).​​ 

This​​ illustrates the enormous cultural differences that can exist between different countries

 

 

FAMILY, CHILDREN

This is one of the extremely positive points in Norway: the importance of the family unit and children. That's what made us stay here in fact. The society is organized around the family. Priority is constantly given to children, parents and the family. This is exceptional. You will find for example toilets​​ with changing tables everywhere, and very regularly rooms fitted with armchairs and sofas for breastfeeding. Breastfeeding is practiced naturally everywhere with no problem. Children are​​ accepted​​ everywhere, and always very welcomed.​​ At work, if you are young parents and you are still working after 4pm, it's​​ not normal; after 5 pm you are a bad mother / a bad father: yes, the​​ kindergartens​​ and other childcares close​​ at the latest 16:30-17:00​​ here!

 

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The Norway Way, Jenny Blake, Schibsted

 

 

POLITENESS

If you come to Norway, know that politeness has a very different definition here…;-)

The door will never be held for example. And if you are a woman, do not expect to be treated differently. Do not be offended:​​ it​​ is​​ the famous Scandinavian​​ equality here!​​ (well, that does not always work that way however…).

Also note​​ that it is​​ expected​​ to remove​​ your​​ shoes at the entrance of the houses.

 

 

CONNECTION

Another highlight: Norwegians are hyper connected. It is very impressive. They constantly have the phone in their hands, even while driving, a national​​ plague, even truck drivers, caterpillar drivers…

They do everything​​ on​​ mobile or internet applications. Everything is managed by login and password. It's very handy for a lot of things (including bills, reservations & co.), But it's surprising when you see them all riveted on their​​ smartphones. As in any country today you will tell me? yes, but here, the​​ smartphone​​ in question is XXL and​​ last available model! and it is not unusual to see children of 6-7 years old with a smartphone much more evolved than your 3-4 years old machine​​ ...

 

 

THE PRE-SCHOOL PLAYGROUP, THE SCHOOL ...

Other small anecdotes that we can count you concerning the children:​​ the​​ kindergarten and the school.

The management of children and their education is very different from what we are accustomed to in France. And since it concerns what is most​​ important in our lives, it marks us deeply, often destabilizes us ...

First, you​​ must know that the school only begins at age 6 in Norway. Before children go to the​​ kindergarten. So they start learning letters and​​ numbers​​ officially only at 6 years old. Then, the school runs roughly from 8:30 to 13:15. After 1 pm, children go to the​​ after-school​​ nursery (the 'SFO') (paying) (but that is only until 9-10 years), or they go home. And yes ... In Norway, children learn independence very early, especially to go to school, and to come back. It is strongly recommended - as early as 6 years old - to let the child walk alone to school. It is​​ very​​ surprising for French people to see all these little​​ kids​​ with their big bags walking at​​ 7-8am on their own to school! But Norway is a very protective society, so everybody keeps an eye on the​​ kids, and it goes very well.

School learning thus begins rather late compared to the French standards. But it appears that at the​​ end, the levels are comparable...? We will see when our children reach this age! 😉

 

During the early years at the​​ kindergarten, child development focuses on personal, motor and social development. This is fundamental in Norwegian society. There is a very strong culture of​​ the​​ 'outdoor': you have to be outdoor as often as possible,​​ in family, in any weather. It is therefore fundamental that children get used to being out early. Our children have, for example, been in what they call​​ an​​ 'outdoor'​​ kindergarten​​ ('friluftbarnehage'). The idea is that they spend as much time as possible in the forest, where they learn​​ building​​ shelters, climb, use knives, light a fire ... It is surprising at first, and for us​​ it was often destabilizing, like​​ when we received a picture of our 3 years​​ old daughter who was cutting wood in the forest with a blade half​​ her​​ size ... or when we got our son napping in his​​ stroller covered with snow ... If your heart stops.​​ For them it​​ is normal.;-)

 

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The embarrassment of the bad mother who does not recognize her child at the nursery ...​​ experienced​​ …;-)

The Norway Way, Jenny Blake, Schibsted

 

 

THE ALCOHOL

If you come to Norway, 3 essential points about alcohol:

- alcoholic beverages other than beer are sold only in specific shops (the​​ 'Vinmonopolet') because of a state monopoly; and beware: there are not anywhere and they have quite limited opening hours! See the dedicated website:​​ https://www.vinmonopolet.no/

- it is extremely (extremely!)​​ expensive​​ ...

- driving tolerance is 0,2‰​​ ... drinking or driving in Norway, it is REALLY to choose!

 

 

 

WHAT TO DO IN NORWAY?

 

 

Norway is an extremely diverse country, and extremely ...​​ big! If you plan to come for a tour, unless it is for 2 months,​​ you​​ will have to make choices because the​​ country is far too large to​​ be​​ visited​​ in 2 weeks. Or you will spend your time on the road ... or you have a budget and can take a plane every 3 days!

First of​​ all, please note that the​​ roads​​ are 'special' in Norway:​​ Given the geography of the country, with mountain ranges and​​ highly cut​​ coastlines, the road infrastructure is 'little developed' compared to most European countries. There are hardly any​​ real highways (some few km near Oslo). Most of the 'major routes' linking major cities are simple​​ 2 lanes​​ roads​​ that go​​ through many villages. The road conditions are regularly bad and the speed limits vary between 40 and 80 km/h, mostly 60, with traffic regularly saturated by trucks and motorhomes. Things are improving, however,​​ but very​​ slowly. The State has decided to invest in improving many traffic lanes, including the main road, the E6, the backbone of the country that connects Oslo to the north of Norway. But, even if you can now​​ drive​​ at 110km/h in places (youhou, enjoy, it does not last long!), It will take you at least 8h to​​ reach​​ Olso​​ from​​ Trondheim for example (for ... 500km ... Yes Yes...). It changes from Germany!! So, be prepared…

 

Norway is a country that is visited for its landscapes, for its exceptional nature.

In fact, pictures summarize the country much better than a long descriptive text ...

 

 

The​​ Lofoten

 

In northern Norway, Lofoten is an archipelago of very photogenic islands: a series of mountain blocks rising from the sea, isolating fjords, narrow valleys and small fishing villages with red wooden houses hanging​​ on​​ the rocks. This is one of the iconic photos of Norway.​​ 

 

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Nordland

 

Nordland is roughly between Narvik and Brønnøysund (including Lofoten). Take the road Fv17 which runs along the coast, it is​​ splendid​​ and will take you through​​ beautiful​​ landscapes. With fjords, islands, gentle mountains, desert plateaus ... Take your time and do not hesitate to explore the secondary roads and footpaths​​ 

 

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Oppland

 

In the center of Norway. An area that includes many magnificent national parks, ranging between medium and high mountains, between vast forests, tundra and peeled mountains beaten by the winds. Dovre, Rondane, Jotunheimen ... Exceptional colors changing every moment.

 

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Trøndelag - Møre-Romsdal - Sogn - Hordaland - Rogaland

 

The series of regions extending from Trondheim (Sør-Trøndelag) in the center, to Stavanger (Rogaland) in the South-West. Typical Norwegian photos come mostly from these regions: fjords with steep cliffs, glaciers, endless waterfalls, landscapes with sea in the foreground, pine forests​​ in the​​ second, and snowy mountain peaks​​ in the back. The famous sites of Geiranger, Trollstivegen, Atlantic Road, Trolltunga, Preikestolen all listed​​ in all tourist guides ... are all along this tormented coast.​​ 

 

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Rogaland - Vest Agder - Aust Agder - Telemark

 

The southern coast of Norway and its hinterland. Very popular​​ with Norwegians. Numerous marinas​​ and​​ sailboats by thousands, sandy beaches,​​ inland​​ with hundreds of hiking trails​​ in​​ the grandiose nature

 

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Østland - Vestland

 

On both sides of the Oslo graben. Unique landscapes of eroded granites, polished by glaciers and weather, white sandy​​ beaches with turquoise waters lined with pine forests.​​ 

Sometime you​​ can​​ think​​ you are in the South of France... until you step into the water 😉

 

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Svalbard

 

Svalbard is an archipelago under Norwegian protectorate located north of the Barents Sea,​​ in​​ the Arctic. It is an almost virgin space where the harshness of the Arctic climate dominates. The landscapes are unique, exceptional, fascinating.

 

FLICKR​​ ALBUM

 

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Restaurants​​ WITH​​ glutenFREE OPTIONS

 

 

What is exceptional about Norway is that information on allergies in general and on celiac disease in particular is excellent. Most people know about the disease and know what it is. As a result, most restaurants and cafes have menus​​ where​​ allergens are listed in detail and very clearly. Either it is done in the normal menu, or in a separate menu that you just have to ask at your arrival. So, we do not really have a specific list of restaurants to give ...

Keep in mind that Norway is expensive, yes, especially for food, and that restaurants usually have​​ excessive​​ prices (compared to France). For example: the standard dish that is found on almost all menus is the hamburger (...).​​ Be prepared​​ to pay easily NOK 200-250 for a simple hamburger (...).

The big chains of restaurants / fast food found across the country are the international McDo and Burger King, and the local Egon, Pepe's Pizza and Jordbær. All offer specifically gluten-free dishes, or gluten-free versions of their main dishes (including hamburger and pizza). We have had the opportunity to test these​​ brands​​ several times and have never had a problem of cross contamination. Gluten-free protocols in the kitchens​​ seem to be respected.

 

 

 

IN SUMMARY

 

 

 

GLUTENFREE LOGISTICS

You will have no problem finding gluten-free products in Norway. Communication on allergens is very good. All restaurants have menus where allergens are listed very clearly. Gluten-free products from the Schar, Semper and Toro brands can be found in all food shops, from the small supermarket in the village to the supermarkets in big cities.

See our gluten-free pages.

 

 

 

 

USEFUL INTERNET LINKS

https://www.visitnorway.fr/

 

 

 

 

FLICKR

 

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